My homemade raspberry pi streamer

my homemade raspberry pi streamer.

latest improvements!
Wooden box and 7,9 inch touchscreen.

Edit: I’ll added a oled screen.

I used a philips TDA 1543 NOS dac and custom output transformers, plus Ian canada isolator II.
furthermore infrared, rotary encoder and 4.3 inch touchscreen (this one will be replaced for a larger one) there are also handles coming.

Edit: handles ar ready.

many parts are recycled from a pa amplifier.





philips nos dac

custom out-put transformers

9 Likes

Nice project! I like the look of the internals! IR rotary encoder is something I would like to add to mine. How do you get that to work?

Thank you.

the rotary encoder and infrared is not that difficult for both there is a plugin for it.
the infrared works on +3.3 volts, ground and data.
the rotary encoder 3.3 volts, ground, output A clk, output B dt and switch (pushbutton) sw

and then a matter of installing and configuring the plugins.
for the infrared I use pin gpio 25 for data.
for the rotary encoder gpio pin 23 (output A) 24 (output B) 27 (switch)

the rotary encoder is type KY-040
infrared I used the following.

Infrared IR TSOP32338 receiver 38Khz directivity 45° - Audiophonicsrotary encoder KY-040

![Schermafbeelding 2022-07-08 om 12.01.10|690x354]

Raspberry-GPIO

(upload://aXPQCnoiWUR7EPF620HFJ4yutkV.jpeg)

1 Like

Thanks for your reply! The thing is, I went the Allo-route so I’ve got 3 hats on top of the Rpi, the top being the amplifier. Now I’m struggling with the “how” do I connect those rotary encoder wires to the correct GPIO pins, because the Allo hats are not compatible with standard GPIO throughput, so I understand. Any thoughts?

Sorry to hijack your project… it’s just that a rotary encoder would be the perfect add-on, I’ve also got a (7") screen in the front, which is nice, but the wife and kids would benefit from a classic volume controller in the front :wink: so yours is the perfect family-proof player in my opinion!

To add to the conversation…: how did you obtain those NOS Philips DAC’s? I can imagine they give a somewhat warm touch to the sound output?

2 Likes

you could use some expansion board to still be able to use the gpio.

by the way the ian canada isolator also has an extra gpio rail

indeed the philips nos dac gives a warm sound but with the isolator in between it sounds a little less warm and a little more detail.

Enjoy it man! I love a warm, somewhat analog sound :hugs:

That looks great… I discovered the Ian Canada products just after I finished my player… for now I’m happy though, but when something breaks… I’ll upgrade :muscle:

by the way those philips dac and output transformers come from “dion audio” and i don’t think he has them for sale over the internet.
he recently had a pcm 1794 nos dac for sale but that ad has expired … maybe he still has it.

if you want to know more about this dac you should contact dion audio.

1 Like

Seems Dion stopped with the addons for the rPi…

That’s looks like a top project awesome.
Love the idea of the htpc again…

Didn’t bother with hats or optical, not worth it for the cost and complicity in Aus. USB to DAC all the way.

1 Like

now also a khadas tone 1 and a toslink to spdif converter built-in, this one is for playing music from TV.

also an atx power module (safe shutdown raspberry pi) and larger block transformer for more power raspberry pi.

If I now compare the khadas tone 1 usb, I would rather choose the Philips NOS DAC … sounds much smoother and more nicely rounded/laid-back than the khadas usb.
it’s just what you like yourself.

1 Like

Very nice setup!

The last thing I had to do was spray everything and that’s done now.



latest changes, ian canada FifoMA 1.5 recklocker and ian canada PurePI power suplly and a few more minor fixes.

at the beginning.
7ca490fa5ae7b36cea2920ba41b0de9b5c62850c_2_690x388

and now.

for the statistics :grinning: an audio research ls7preamp with a pink faun smd infrared rotary encoder, 2 x bryston 7b power amplifiers, reference 3a grand master speakers.

2 Likes

Hi @michel8166 ,

I want to build a streamer with a included linear power supply . Would you please tell me:

  • What linear power supply have you used

  • Have you used also a power supply regulator to 5V , if yes what mode ?

  • You have powered the touchscreen and RP from the same power supply ?

Thanks

I used an ian canada PurePi power supply, it has a 5 and 3.3 volt output (5 volts for pi and at the same time for the Ian canada isolator II (configured in master mode) and 3.3 volts for the ian canada FifoMA reclocker)
this PurePi gets its 5 volts from an audiophonics Power Management and this in turn from a linear power supply that I have adjusted to 8 volts dc.
the 7.9 inch touchscreen gets 5 volts from a cheap switched power supply.

audiophonics-pi-spc-reg-power-management-power-supply to input Ian canada PurePi

ian canada PurePi to input raspberry pi and Ian canada FifoMA

8 volt output for audiophonics-pi-spc-reg-power-management-power-supply

the philips 1543 nos dac has a power supply of 12 volts - and + 12 volts.

3 Likes

Thanks for the great explanation.

1 Like

Hi @michel8166 The Rpi is powered from PurePI but the RPI does not needs 3A and I see that pure pi has only 2.5A which goes in a linear power supply from your link (8V with 2.4A) ? Thx

in principle you don’t have to use that audiophonics power module and instead you can use the Power Module A-19 2x3-20V LT1083 to control the PurePI.

but I find the audiophonics power module useful to turn on and off the raspberry pi power safe.

more amps is better too little is not good. so it doesn’t matter if it’s more.